JD_4410_MFWD

Below are some pics of my John Deere 4410 Compact Utility MFWD axle seal replacement. Within 300 hours, which was 3.5 years both my mfwd axle seals started to leak pretty good onto the garage floor. (The first seal went after 2.5 years, 244 hours.) After the huge replacement bill I received from JD, I set out to do the second one myself since the seal itself only cost about $20. (As an estimate for those who don't want to mess with it, I don't have a trailer so pickup, delivery, and the labor came out to about $300.)

Tools Required:
- Socket for wheel bolts.
- Socket for hub bolts.
- Chisel (used to get the hub apart, by tapping lightly with a hammer in the two slots that are around the hub.)
- Hammer
- Pry bar (to get the hub the rest of the way off)
- Retaining ring pliers.
- Hydraulic press and accessories to press apart and put back together. (I used impact sockets!)

Procedure:
- Take the wheel off.
- Remove 8 hex head bolts around the flange.
- Pry off the hub. I started by using a chisel in the slots and once it was open a bit I used a small pry bar, until I could wiggle it off with my hands. Be sure to have a drain pan underneath because fluid is going to come out.
- Remove retaining clip.
- Use press to press out axle shaft (part the wheel bolts to). There will be an inner bearing, gear (with a spacer that slips on its shaft on the back), an outer bearing, then the seal.
- Drive out the bad seal.
- Drive in the new seal. I placed the old seal on top of the new seal and gently tapped around with a hammer until the new seal was set. (Axle seal is part # LVU10836.)
- Press everything back together in the order you took it off.
- Use a thin bead of casing sealant/gasket maker (not RTV sealant, this is more of a harder plastic sealant, looks similar to loctite and came in the same looking tube) around the hub flange you took off.
- Reinstall hub. May have to wiggle it a bit to get it to set back in. Then gently tap it in with a hammer.
- Re-fill axle with JD Low Viscosity Hydraulic Fluid.
- Reinstall wheel. Now your ready to go mow, grade, load, or whatever without leaving a trail of fluid and causing a puddle in the garage!

The job can seriously be done in less than an hour. Took me a bit longer because I set out to make the design a little better for how I use my tractor. I've read that if your tractor sees mud or water your seals are much more likely to fail. I live in a marshy area, and my tractor sees mud often. I typically don't get axle deep, nor do I beat my tractor (I'm known for keeping my toys in great shape and the 4410 is garaged kept). Bottom line is, I don't want to be replacing axle seals every two years.

After taking it apart, I also thought to myself that it seems to be a pretty weak design, so I attempted to help solve the leaky seal problem by eliminating the need for the rubber seal all together. Rather than using an open bearing I got a replacement bearing that is sealed. I purchased the sealed bearing for $77 from Philadelphia Ball and Roller Bearing, Co. in Wilmington, DE. There is a four digit number on the side of the bearing 6212, I don't know much about how the size of roller bearings are given, but the open bearing has the same 6212 on the side of it. My only concern for the sealed bearing is that the JD 4410 uses Low Viscosity Hydraulic fluid rather than nice thick gear oil. I put a bead of casing sealant on the inside and outside of the bearing and also on the flat surface next to the seal to help stop any fluid that may pass though. I did install a new seal, but my intent is that it will act as a dust shield and protect things from getting in from the outside.

After I took everything apart, I noticed on the axle shaft, what looks to be fatigue around where the seal sets. Also it looks to have a stress crack that goes almost all the way around the shaft. At least now, if my wheel falls off... I won't be surprised! Until then... I'm using it!

(Click on thumbnails for larger pics.)